I've taken two trips to Baja, both were 7 days,
Saturday to Saturday. You can see allot in seven days, I think two weeks would
be perfect. The first trip was kind of a recon to see what it was all about.
The second trip we blasted south to spend quality time the good parts that we
had to rush trough on the first
trip.
We've crossed in Tecate both times to miss the Big City mess in TJ. Works
Great. I've seen places that sell Mexico Travel insurance online and have
heard good things about them. I've bought it just before the border crossing.
There are a couple places that sell Mexico Travel insurance. No hassle, pay
with a Visa.
Quick Commercial on tourist cards. You are supposed to have one if you travel
south of Ensenada. I've read many times that "nobody ever checks." Our first
trip we were stopped a the Baja Norte/Baja Sur border north of Guerrero Negro
and they wanted to see them. I think it would have been an expensive hassle if
we didn't have them.
The tourist cards are a pain to get. You fill out a form at a government
tourist office and a bored and grumpy guy stamps it about five times. Then you
have to go to the Banco de Mexico within 24 hours and pay for it. First, if
you get the card on a Saturday and the Bank isn't open until Monday you have
already violated the 24 hour rule. The Tourist offices can be hard to find.
Likewise there isn't a bank on every corner. Cities with banks are listed on
the tourist card. Our second trip to Baja it took us about 5 days before we
were in town with a Bank during regular banking hours. They had some reason we
couldn't understand why they couldn't take our money. Thankfully nobody asked
to see them on the second trip.
Fuel, Didn't carry extra fuel. Rule number one, see gas - buy gas. Rule number
two, just because there is a gas station doesn't mean its going to have gas.
Rule number three, there is always some enterprising Mexican who will sell you
gas, Just ask around. Their gas is just as good as pump gas, it just costs
more. We bought gas from non-gas station guys four times on the second trip.
1/2 the time because we didn't follow rule number one, and the other 1/2
because we were way off the beaten path and there wasn't much choice.
Weather, I've been in early November and late Feb. Both times were colder than
I expected. Its windy there.
Route. Depends allot on personal preference. Ensenada is ok. The real Baja
starts south of there. Mike's sky ranch is a good stop between Ensenada and
San Filipe. Big bikes will cruise right in there from the the north off Mex
three. Its a rougher ride into Mike's from the west off Mex 1.
San Filepe is pretty good. South from San Filepe to Puertecitos, Alfonsina's
and Coco's corner is a good ride. A little loose and rough, but no big deal.
Other options are to do an out and back to Bahia de los Angeles or continue
south on gravel to San Fancisquito and El Arco. The out and back to Bahia de
los Angeles works good for finding clean, cheap hotels. We are going to head
south out of there on the gravel our next trip.
After you have seen it once there isn't anything too special about coming down
Mex 1 on the west side through San Quintin and El Rosario. Likewise Guerrero
Negro isn't anything to get excited about. The most boring part of the trip is
next followed by the best part. Crossing the Vizcaino dessert to get to the
Sea of Cortez side gets old. If it's a really windy day the BMW's will have
more fun than the KLR. Stop in San Ignacio and check out the palms and temple.
Santa Rosalia, You have reached the sea of Cortez. This city is ugly. Don't
let that bother you. Mulege is awesome. In fact there is nothing between
Mulege and Loreto that I don't like. I could spend two weeks right there, no
problem. There is great beach camping south of Mulege. My favorite, Playa
Coyote. There are two restaurants and a tienda just up the road. All of the
places along Bahia Concepcion are beautiful. They just cater to different
folks.
We took a nice loop off Mex 1 to San Jose and San Miguel de Comondu and San
Javier. We took the Baja 1000 option that got a little rough. Going to San
Jose Comondu via San Isidro would be better on big bikes. In my opinion, the
ride from San Javier back to Loreto is the most senic piece of road I've
ridden in Baja. I've never made it south of Loreto. I'd like to get down to La
Paz. Going to Cabo for the sake of reaching the end would be nice, but I don't
think it's my kind of place.
In Nov and Feb we've been limited by daylight. Its not a great place to ride
after dark. "clean" motels are cheap. Camping is free except on the beaches.
We've learned to settle down for the night before dark and walk to the local
restaurant often eating and drinking until bed time. What would be a $90 night
out for two in my hometown runs about $30 in Baja.
Last and best bit of advice. Send your $24.95 to the good people at
www.baja-almanac.com in Las Vegas
and they will send you a fantastic book of maps. Much better than anything
else I've seen. I think the Moon Handbook is best for what is going on in each
city and I'd also highly recommend Clement Salvadori's book "Motorcycle
Journey's Through Baja". Its a great motorcyclist perspective guidebook.
Amazon.com is the easiest place to get it.
Back to Baja in Nov 2004....
Went to Baja again Mid Oct
2005. Weather was great. Water was warm. The dirt roads are a little sandier and
rockier after a long dry summer. It was a good trip with some "real estate"
exploration. Didn't take too many pics. The mighty KLR finished the
trip in the back of a pick-up in San Ignacio. See my good advice about changing
rear sprockets on my Mods page.
A fixer upper
Lots of these in Gringo land to choose from
Casa Jose y Lorrie
Our friend's place south of San Filepe. Spent the night here. Lots of fun
For Sale
A place we specifically went to scout out at Punta Final about 8'ish miles south of Alphonsina's
Neighbors
The neighbors at Punta Final
Guest quarters
Plenty of trailers for everybody
Dogs
It can be very exhausting being a dog in baja
Mulege
The mighty Mulege river
Palm Trees
Beautiful Vegitation in and around Mulege
Nice
A vacation place I can't afford
The end...
Bike in the back of a truck. Not how it was supposed to end.
