Step by Step Instruction on the art of Stained Glass

I have put together the following instructions in hopes of giving back what I have learned through the experts and advanced hobbyist on the internet and through my study and research in the art of stained glass.  Please keep in mind that these instructions are one version.  This is my version which I am constantly changing and improving as I increase my knowledge and improve my skills.  I want to thank people who participate and post on the following forums as a collective group for reading this site and offering their suggestions on improvements to my site and my knowledge:   Aanraku Message Board Forum, Down East Stained Glass Forum, Stained Glass Canada Forum, and Silicon Folly Glass ForumI would highly recommend to anyone that you take the time to visit these forums.  They are a great source of knowledge!

 

 

 

 

 

Tools you will need

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An assortment of glass

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Pattern

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Water proof glass marking pen

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Carbide Wheel Glass Cutter

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Cutting Oil

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Grozing/Breaking Pliers

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Grinder

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Copper foil

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Flux & Flux brush

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solder

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soldering iron

These items can be purchased on-line from Glass Crafters or other similar reputable supply stores.  Glass Crafters is the company that I use most.  Warner-Cirvello is another.  As with both, shipping is always quick and the products are top notch!

 

bullet An assortment of glass - You will need to choose an assortment of glass for your project.

Glass comes in all colors and textures.  There are many different colors and textures of glass to choose from.  All types will do and you should choose a selection that will make your project unique.  Regardless of which type or color you choose to use, the finished project will be uniquely yours.

 

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Pattern - Once you have decided on a pattern, mark the pattern in series of numbers that will represent the different colors of glass you will be using.  It is also a good idea to make a copy of the numbered pattern to use as a template once your original has been cut-up into individual pattern pieces.  Tip:  if you laminate the back of your pattern before cutting it up, it will not only increase the strength of the pieces, but will also allow for reuse at a later time. 

Cut out each individual piece along the lines.  As you will notice, it is much like cutting up a puzzle.  This is the same way that working with your cut pieces of glass will go back together.  Is much like a puzzle and you can use the extra numbered copy to easily show where each cut piece is to be placed back into the pattern.

 

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Waterproof Glass Marking Pen - Using a waterproof pen, trace the pattern onto the glass.  I usually use a black pen for light colored glass and a white pen for the darker.  Either way, you will want to use a pen that can be seen on the glass and will not rub off as you begin to cut.   Note:  Until you get used to cutting class, it is probably best to do one pattern piece at a time and then cutting it out before going on to the next one.

Of course there are many other techniques to how you can cut out your glass patterns.  However, I have found that the tracing method is the best, as it allows for a clear line to cut along and a good visual for grinding and smoothing the edges.  You will come up with your own technique as you begin to develop your skills.

Once your pieces are cut it is a good idea to sort out the series of numbers.  This will allow you to have all the pieces together for each sheet of glass. 

 

bullet Carbide Wheel Glass Cutter -I have found that one of the easiest glass cutters is the Toyo Carbide Wheel Glass Cutter, also known as the pistol cutter.  This tool holds your cutting oil and will then lubricate each of your score lines automatically.  The unique handle is engineered to provide greater leverage with less effort, making it possible to score for hours with no hand fatigue.

Using a steady, even movement of the cutter, score (the technical term of cutting glass) along the lines that you traced on your glass.  It is easiest to do straight lines first.  Start at an edge placing the cutter perpendicular to the glass.  Apply consistent, light to medium pressure while moving the cutter along the pattern.  Be sure not to lift the cutter until you have scored the entire line that you want to break.  Break each line as you have finished scoring it, then go to the next.    Note:  Always score the glass on the smoothes side.  It will allow for easier scoring. 

Only score the line you are working on once.  Never retrace over the line as this will damage your glass cutter. 

Be sure to use lubricant with your cutter.  If you are using the Toyo Carbide Wheel Glass Cutter, you simply need to put a little of the glass oil into the handle and it will self lubricate as it scores.  However, if you are using a glass cutter that is not self lubricating, you will need to dip the end into some type of lubricant. 

 

bullet Grozing/Breaking Pliers - There are many different tools for Grozing and breaking glass.  The ones pictured here are the only ones I use. 

The first 2 in the picture are Running Pliers.  Running Pliers let you break difficult scores with ease.  They apply equal pressure to both sides of the score line causing the score to easily "run" meaning the crack along your cut.

To use the Running Pliers:  Place the jaws with the center indicator line facing up centered onto the score.  Squeeze the handle gently until the score runs.  Do so in several different places along the score until the glass has completely broken.

The last pair is a Breaker/Grozier Pliers.  This pliers has a flat jaw on the top and a curved jaw on the bottom.  They are used for both breaking out scores and Grozing flares from the edge of glass.

To use the Breaker/Grozier Pliers:  To break out a score, hold the glass firmly in one hand.  With your other hand, place the pliers on the piece of glass to be broken.  Make sure to place the curved part of the pliers under the glass.  Using the pliers, bend downwards and away from the glass to snap the piece off.    To Groze, hold the pliers with  the curved side up, and use a rolling motion to gently scrape the glass edge against the serrated teeth to smooth out the glass.  Also use the tips of the pliers to nibble away small sections of glass or to cut out deep inside curves.

 

bullet Grinder - A grinder is a motorized tool with a diamond grinding head that is used to smooth out the edges of your pieces to assure for a tighter fit and to help the foil to create a solid seal on the glass.

You can purchase or rent grinders from most local suppliers. 

 

bullet Copper Foil - Once the edges of your glass is ground smooth you will want to apply the foil to each piece of glass.  The foil will be the conductor for the solder.  You will need to use a size that will fit your glass and not overlap too much on each side of the glass.  I tend to use 7/32" more than any other.  Your local glass supplier can help greatly with this.

Make sure that you clean each piece of glass before attempting to foil.  Warm, clean and dry class will make for easy foiling.  Using copper foil, apply around the entire outside edge of each piece of glass.  Make sure that the foil is flat in all places, especially around the corners. 

Press down hard to smooth out any ridges and to assure that the foil is fully adhered to the glass.  This is called burnishing the foil, and this will help to assure that the flux does not seep under the foil.  I use an old wooden spoon made of pine to run along the edges.  I find it very easy to apply this way.

Once all pieces have been foiled, place back onto a cork board or some type of board that can accommodate push pins to use to hold your piece together.  I use a square of false ceiling board.  Arrange your pieces pressing together tightly.  Once they have been arranged back into their intended pattern, start on one edge side and place the push pins around the outside, all along pushing the pieces into each other to create a tight fit.

 

bullet Flux & Flux brush - Now your pieces are ready to have flux applied to them.  Make sure that there is an adequate air circulation.  Using a flux brush or a Q-Tip, apply flux along all the exposed copper foil areas.

There are many different brands of flux.  I prefer to use a liquid flux as it is very easy and quick to apply.  However, when new to the art of stained glass, you may find that a gel flux is easier to apply.  This is a much thicker flux.

Be sure to not apply too much, but also making sure that all of the foil has been moistened by the flux.  Not enough will cause the solder not to stick.  Too much will cause the flux to boil and pop.  This can cause harm to you by burning and solder is VERY HOT!

 

bullet Solder - Now you can solder!  I use 60/40 solder. (check with your local dealer to learn about the different mixtures of solder)  Hold the solder in one hand with the solder extended 4 to 5 inches from the spool, in the other hand hold the soldering iron by the handle, holding close to the foil but not allowing the soldering iron to touch the foil, hold the solder close to the hot tip of the iron and run along the lines of the foil.  This is a fairly quick process. 

At first you will simply want to tin the foil with a small amount of solder so that the pieces are soldered together.  Once this is completed allow the solder to cool, then turn over the soldered panel and repeat the fluxing and soldering to the back side. 

After all your soldering has been completed, you may want to run some additional solder along the lines of both the front and back to give the lines a smooth dimensional look. 

Allow the completed panel to cool and then clean to remove any excess solder.   If you are not going to have it framed, you may also want to solder along the outside to create a finish to your panel

 

bulletThe last step to completing your panel is to apply some type of finish so to protect the solder from oxidizing.  I prefer to apply black patina to the solder.  This will give your panel a very nice finish.  Apply the patina to the solder with an old toothbrush.  Continue brushing until it has turned as dark as you want it to become.  Do the same to the back side of your panel. 

Rinse and dry your panel.  Hint:  For an additional finish and shine to the blackened foil, add a wax to it.  I use just any old car wax.  The kind that dries quickly.  Once it has dried, rub it off with a clean dry towel.  Once all the wax residue has been removed, use a boar bristled brush and in a circular motion brush the entire front and back of your panel.  This will add an incredible shine!

Congratulations!  You have just completed your panel.  You can now have it framed or simply add a hanger to the top and hang it up in a sunny window.

 

 

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